Previous Swimwatch posts have discussed the Mare Nostrum series of swim meets. This year a team of New Zealand swimmers has been picked to take part in the best swimming trip they will ever have. Eyad is swimming as well. Barcelona, Canet and Monaco – how does any swim trip top that? Now I have nothing against the Moana Pool in Dunedin. In fact, it is a lovely place to swim. The Kilbirnie Pool in Wellington is impressive. Even Auckland’s Owen Glenn Pool is fast and welcoming. But seriously, compared to Barcelona, Canet and Monaco? Not really.

I’ve “done” Mare Nostrum seven times with swimmers from New Zealand, the US Virgin Islands and the United States. As I have said, the circuit is fantastic, but which of the three stops is best?

Monaco, perhaps? It certainly is everything you would expect from a royal city. The car service shop next to the pool is stunning. Lamborghini, Maserati, Bugatti, Rolls Royce – if one of those is not your means of transport, I suspect this garage is not for you. Prince Albert II and his wife, South African Olympic swimmer, Charlene, Princess of Monaco attend the last night of finals. Charlene, Princess of Monaco was a pretty good backstroke swimmer – 5^th in the 2000 Olympic Games, her best times were 1.02.42 for 100m and 2.14.95 for 200m. Both good enough for third in this year’s NZ Championships. Albert and Charlene met when she was swimming in the year 2000 Mare Nostrum series. Who knows what the New Zealand swimmers might find in 2022?   

There is one story that says all you need to know about Monaco. I was having lunch on our hotel balcony overlooking the Monaco harbour. I noticed workers replacing a huge gold letter M in the name of a super yacht.  I asked the hotel waiter if he knew what had happened. The boat was owned by a member of a middle east royal family. During a rough trip across the Atlantic the letter M had been torn off. It was being replaced. According to my waiter the letters were real gold. Each letter cost $1million. So, if you’re looking for a million dollars, somewhere between the Caribbean and Monaco there is a letter M at the bottom of the Atlantic Ocean.

Sadly, the most disappointing feature of the Monaco stop is the pool. The roof is way too low. The stadium feels cramped – a touch airless and sweaty. Not at all like the splendour one expects in the royal kingdom.

But what about Barcelona? Truly one of the world’s great tourist cities. Grant Dalton didn’t choose Barcelona to host the next America’s Cup for no reason. Diverse, historic, interesting, cultural and sporting (go Barcelona FC), Barcelona is an amazing place. And this time the pool does not disappoint. It is deep and fast. It is not, as many would expect, the pool built for the 1992 Olympic Games but is instead a private club oasis in the middle of busy north Barcelona. The best way to get to it from the hotel is on the underground. The pool has a huge sliding roof that closes in bad weather. The warm down pool can get a bit cramped. It is outside and is a small 20m learner’s pool. But if it’s good enough for Popov and Ranomi Kromowidjojo the New Zealand swimmers should manage. Don’t leave Barcelona without a lunch salad (and if you’re old enough and ask Amanda first) a glass of Alella wine in one of the famous La Ramblas street cafes. You will leave truly international, having sampled the personal favourite wine of the Court of the Kings of Aragon.

And then there is Canet. Monaco has its money. Barcelona has its history. But Canet is my favourite. While international tourists go to Monaco and Barcelona, the domestic French holiday maker goes to Canet. The town, the pool and the Roussillon region are fantastic. The town is small (population 12,000). But what it lacks in size it more than makes up in character. It is just so incredibly French.

Old men playing boules in dusty parks, 100 beach side cafes, miles of white beach sand, bakeries selling all sorts of French bread, tourists setting up for a day at the beach, jet skis for hire – whether you want to be active or spend the day playing being French, Canet is the place for you.

I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Canet. I stayed at the incredible Clos de Pines Hotel for a month during the Barcelona Olympic Games and have made 7 Mare Nostrum visits. I have never been disappointed. The pool is outdoors, but who cares? It is deep and fast. Besides, it’s always warm in Canet. A lady called Stephanie Bonnet might not be the pool CEO but she runs the place. Her welcome is always open and friendly. Please say hello to her for me.

What can I recommend you do in Canet? The hotel breakfasts are always special, but it is hard to beat an early walk along the beachfront to a bakery-café for breakfast. A welcome, “Bonjour”, the warmth from the sun coming up across the Mediterranean, crisp French bread, jam, cheese and hot, strong French coffee – no wonder the French produced swimmers like Camille Muffat, Alain Bernard, Florent Manaudou, Frédérick Bousquet, Yannick Agnel and Laure Manaudou. Any training is possible with a breakfast like that to look forward to.

And so, I hope the New Zealand team enjoy Mare Nostrum 2022. It is a trip I doubt you will forget. God speed.